Ancient Tourists and Irish High Crosses

Jerusalem Brought to Ireland

All Irish high crosses are representations of holy sites in Jerusalem. Carved in the medieval period, roughly 700 to 1200 AD, they are the most impressive sculptures from the early Middle Ages this side of Byzantium.
    
Start at the base of the cross. It is always stepped. Why? Because during late Roman times, pilgrims climbing the hill of Golgotha did so on a series of well built steps. So, the bottom of every high cross recreates in miniature the approach to the spot where Jesus was crucified.
    
Atop the sacred hill in Jerusalem, a great cross was erected. So too, the Irish versions are topped by the symbol of the crucifixion. A ring of stone connecting the arms to the upright length of the cross creates the characteristic outline of the “wheeled” or Celtic Cross. This ring, too, harkens back to the time of Rome.
    
When a general won a battle, his standard was erected outside his tent. It bore the general’s shield surrounded by a laurel wreath. When Constantine won the battle that made him undisputed Emperor of Rome, he directed that the Greek letters Chi-Ro, representing ChRist, be placed within a wreath at the top of the imperial standard. The scholarly consensus is that the Celtic Cross is a recreation in stone of this ancient Roman military decoration.
   
In those early days, the tomb of Jesus was enclosed in a small house, and later by a domed shrine. We know this because pilgrim souvenirs from the time depict a dome atop the holy sepulchre. Sure enough, intact Irish crosses are topped with a small shingled building or a beehive shaped dome.

Tourist Tat
    
The original great cross, steps and tomb in Jerusalem were totally demolished by an invading Persian army in the 7th century. The only surviving evidence of the Roman places of pilgrimage are those souvenir medallions purchased by visiting tourists. It’s amazing to think that ancient tourist tat is our main source of evidence about these sites. Perhaps that medal of Lourdes in your dresser will be all that is left for future historians trying to reconstruct Bernadette’s grotto.
    
Next time you come upon a Celtic Cross, take a good look. Many of the more modern versions filling local graveyards are simplified versions of their medieval ancestors. But, some of the more faithful representations recall monuments found in Jerusalem nearly two millenia ago. Each Celtic Cross faithfully recreates Golgotha; each is a pilgrimage in miniature.
Ahenny Crosses
    
The National Museum of Ireland, Collins Barracks, in Dublin currently has a major display of High Crosses. You can take the LUAS tram from O'Connell Street right to the museum or Number 31 will happily book a taxi. Yes, right here in Dublin you can take a pilgrimage to ancient Jerusalem!